Since its founding in 2003, Devil’s Food Catering has become a cornerstone of Portland’s vibrant culinary and event landscape. Known for its gracious service, seasonal menus, and artful presentation, the company has built a reputation for turning every occasion—from intimate dinners to glittering galas—into an unforgettable experience. We sat down with James Fowler, who took the helm in 2019 after years as part of the team, to talk about the evolution of Devil’s Food, the artistry behind great entertaining, and why sustainability and community are at the heart of everything they do.
Two Decades of Delight:
Devil’s Food Catering has been part of Portland’s culinary landscape for over 20 years. How has the vision evolved since 2003, and what do you think has kept your approach timeless?
Devil’s Food was founded by my predecessor, Charles Stilwell, for whom I came to work in 2011 and then was able to purchase the company from in 2019. Charles was from South Carolina and embodied that southern hospitality vibe. The food was good and rich, and the service was gracious. In many ways, 22 years later we are still pursuing the same vision—making good, honest food and serving it happily to our clients and their guests. My training is more French culinary, but I’m from Kansas, so I have that wholesome streak, too. Our kitchen is diverse, as is our clientele. We all like to eat myriad kinds of food and cook many types of food. So some dishes have come and gone as trends do, but at the root of it, we are still making delicious seasonal menus from scratch using the highest quality ingredients we can, and serving it unpretentiously.
The Art of Entertaining:
From intimate dinners to grand galas, Devil’s Food is known for crafting experiences that feel both elegant and effortless. How do you approach creating that “wow” moment for your clients?
Every event is different. Accepting that fact is key to success. The season is different, the menu is different, the scale is different, the occasion is different, you’re likely in a different kitchen or venue, the client is different, the guests are different, and the event personnel are likely a little different. You must give every event your full attention as a planner. Our 3 planners and myself have over 50 years combined event experience; we’ve seen it all! The key is embracing and supporting the client’s vision—giving guidance at times when necessary—and then exceeding expectations and doing the right thing for the moment.
Food as a Creative Expression:
Artslandia celebrates creativity—what role does artistry play in your menu design, presentation, and event experience?
Well, being a caterer is very different from being a restaurateur. Our opportunities for creativity come in smaller bursts, and a lot of what we do is logistics. And the balance of pushing the envelope and still planning events that are executable is very important. In January, when business slows up a bit, the culinary team and I are writing and revising a lot of our menu sets for the coming year. It’s very collaborative and fun! In February, we’ll move all the new dishes into R&D, and then when we’re happy with the way things are, we’ll present them to the planning staff and the event staff. But let’s be clear, we’re not reinventing the wheel here. People don’t buy tickets to galas or attend weddings and such because they get to have Devil’s Food. We are playing a support role to the main event, and our goal is to serve the most delicious food possible in a way that makes guests feel exceptionally well cared for.
Sustainability as a Standard:
Your sustainability practices are impressive—from composting to sourcing local, seasonal ingredients. Can you share what drives that commitment and how it influences your day-to-day operations?
Sustainability is non-negotiable in my opinion. We’ve got one Earth, and we’ve got to do our best to take care of it. The same goes for our city and our society. We’ve got to treat others the way we want to be treated and leave the world a better place than the way we found it.
Community and Connection:
Devil’s Food partners with dozens of nonprofits and local organizations. What does community engagement mean to you, and how do you decide where to focus your impact?
It’s so clear to me that our success is intrinsically tied to the success of our community. A thriving Portland means a thriving Devil’s Food. And we can help be a driver of that. We partner with organizations that feed and nourish the bodies of our most vulnerable and also with arts organizations that feed and nourish our souls and minds. This year, we will donate around $200,000 in in-kind and cash donations back to our community. In turn we are able to help those organizations reach more folks and that benefits all of us.
Memorable Moments:
You’ve served everyone from world-class artists to Portlanders like us. Is there a particular event or story that stands out as quintessentially “Devil’s Food”?
Oh gosh, there have been so many amazing moments—joking around in the back room with Joe Biden in January 2020, pausing for a selfie with Damian Lillard at his brother’s wedding, opening Nebuchadnezzars of nearly-priceless old Bordeaux. I think most, I enjoy the galas. You get to know the organizations and their missions so well, and surmounting the logistical challenges of serving excellent dinners to 500 people and the prestige that goes with it is really a thrill.
The Devil is in the Details:
What are some of the details—large or small—that truly make a Devil’s Food event special?
Like I said, each event is unique, and accounting for that is of utmost importance. But whether it’s sausages & sauerkraut or foie gras canapés and Champagne, the key is to put love and care into every part of the process, from planning to sourcing to preparation to service. The result is palpable!
Culinary Trends & Timeless Tastes:
How do you balance innovation with the classics? Are there particular dishes or ingredients that continue to define your brand?
Trends come and go. Knowing how to sear or season or properly make a sauce are constant. Of course, we have some signature dishes, too. Our fried chicken, I will never tire of. Our many different cocktail sandwiches on our signature house-baked milk bread rolls. I love our salads because you know exactly what season you’re eating in. Anything that comes out of our pastry kitchen, headed by our longtime pastry chef Nicole Fudge, is going to knock your socks off!
Looking Ahead:
Devil’s Food has achieved so much already. What excites you most about the future—whether that’s new flavors, new partnerships, or new ways of celebrating together?
I am more excited about what we do than ever. I love seeing our team grow and excel. I enjoy meeting more leaders in our community and supporting them where we can. And I’m always wondering, how can we keep improving our product and helping more people.
About Devil’s Food Catering
Devil’s Food Catering has been delighting Portland-area partygoers since 2003. Over the last two decades-plus, they have built a reputation for delicious handcrafted food, a sophisticated bar program, gracious service, experienced planning, and timeless style—while also demonstrating a commitment to civic engagement, social equity, and environmental stewardship.
For more information, visit Devil’s Food Catering’s website.
